Archive for June, 2009|Monthly archive page
The 100 Most Influential People in Bolivia
CA$H magazine, a Bolivian business and finance rag, has an article on the top 100 most influential people in Bolivia. Short commentary from the Americas Quarterly blog is here (everything is in Spanish.)
Unsurprisingly, the journal emphasizes political and business figures. Also unsurprising, Evo Morales is named the most influential person in Bolivia. Considering he is by far the most well-known Bolivian outside the country as well as President, I don’t think there’s much argument here. Rubén Costas, the governor of the Santa Cruz department, is named second. Santa Cruz, the economic workhorse of Bolivia, continues to strive for greater autonomy from La Paz, and thus Costas heads the department that provides the most direct resistance to Evo’s national policies. In third place is Vicepresident García Linera.
It’s a Coup
Nearly all the commentary about the coup in Honduras has emphasized two things: (1) that Zelaya is a completely unsympathetic figure here as his attempted power grab through a constitutional assembly precipitated the coup, and (2) that this certainly was a coup and Zelaya should be reinstated. I say nearly all, because some people actually don’t believe it’s a coup. Instead, it’s a run-of-the-mill “military impeachment” and part of the country’s “checks and balances”. The most extreme suggest we should not worry if this was a coup, we only need to ask: “[d]oes the fact that the coup is in the interests of the United States even matter to our president?”
I want to focus on The Wall Street Journal opinion piece because it tries to square the circle in the most coherent manner. What this says about the Journal’s worldview I want to leave aside and focus on a couple of points the article tries to make. First, the piece takes as sacrosanct all the legal fig leafs the supporters of the coup has trotted out. Then it tries to make a point that this coup is part of Honduras’ checks and balances. I’m no expert on Honduras constitutional law (and the Constitution is not a simple document to understand), but I don’t seem to be able to find the provision which gives the Supreme Court the ability to order the military to take the President. No doubt some would say, that the military was acting for the legislature and the Supreme Court. Besides the fact that the Court has a reputation as “one of the most corrupt institutions in Latin America” (according to Larry Birns, director of the Washington-based Council on Hemispheric Affairs.) Greg Weeks sums it up nicely:
Roberto Micheletti and other coup supporters insist everything was legal. If their actions could be deemed legal by virtue of specific laws, that would bolster their assertion that Zelaya’s removal was legitimate. Yet the coup is now about 36 hours old, and to my knowledge no one has explained what law was followed, who issued the court order for picking up Zelaya and flying him out of the country, and what legal basis the new government has for remaining in power until the next presidential election.
Moreover, the coup threatens the democratic order that Central America has tried hard to instill in the past two decades. This region only recently emerged from several longstanding civil wars (in Nicaragua and Guatemala) and democracy has a weak footing with the exception of Costa Rica. A military intervention into civil politics threatens this nascent order. The fact that Zelaya was himself acting beyond the letter of law does not make the military’s also unconstitutional actions any better. The military removed the democratically-elected president of Honduras and assumed control of the country. The Brookings Institute put it best: “While bearing by far the greater responsibility for this crisis, Mr. Zelaya is still the legitimate president of Honduras and must be reinstated in his position.”
Update:
To put the Wall Street Journal op-ed in perspective. Here is Mary O’Grady in 2003 defending the ’73 Pinochet coup in Chile on very similar grounds as with the recent coup in Honduras.
Coup in Honduras
President Manuel Zelaya has fled Honduras for Costa Rica after a military coup d’état today. Quick backstory: essentially Zelaya tried to make a big power grab by scheduling for Sunday a non-binding referendum on whether the constitution’s limit of one presidential term should be changed. The referendum was declared illegal by the courts and Congress, and the head of the armed forces, Romeo Vazquez, refused to allow the military to participate in the referendum process (the military is in charge of distributing ballots during elections.) Zelaya fired Vazquez this past Thursday.
Keep in mind, Zelaya seems to have made a ton of political enemies, and was unpopular with traditional Honduras power interests because of his left-leaning ideology and attempts to strengthen ties to other regional socialist governments in Venezuela, Nicaragua, and Bolivia.
All the relevant international players, thankfully, are doing the right thing. The Organization of American States does not recognize the Micheletti government in no uncertain terms: “no government arising from this unconstitutional interruption will be recognized.” The Obama administration also still recognizes Zelaya as president of Honduras.
Coup d’états undermine countrys’ political institutions, but it’s hard to feel sorry for Zelaya when he was trying to subvert the Honduras political system to perpetuate his own power. None the less, this coup reveals how undeveloped Honduras’ political institutions are. Worse, it appears some elites are perfectly ok with using force to retain power. This is a bad situation with a lot of potential to get worse. I just hope for the citizens of Honduras that their government comes to its senses and reinstalls Zelaya. The possibility of international isolation because of the coup is real and would hurt an already sadly impoverished country’s people.
Upate:
The referendum actually asked this question:
“Esta usted de acuerdo que en las elecciones generales de noviembre de 2009 se instale una cuarta urna para decidir sobre la convocatoria a una Asamblea Nacional Constituyente que apruebe una nueva Constitucion politica?” (via Hilzoy)
That roughly translate into: “Do you agree that in the November 2009 elections, there should be a ballot question to decide whether to convene a National Constitutional Assembly to approve a new constitution?”
Most observers interpreted that to signify that the presidential term limit would be changed, but it could have much more broader consequences than that. Chavez of Venezuela and Morales of Bolivia both has used constitutional assemblies to reshape their states into a more socialist mold. Though perhaps still a power grab by Zelaya, I think the traditional elite is scared of anything changing the current power structure in Honduras and a constitutional assembly could easily do just that.
Seems they decided to try to nip in the bud any possibility of change with this coup, but from the initial international statements I think they have overplayed their hand. The Honduras elites who orchestrated this seem to be incredibly paranoid of any threats to their power. This fear of change and the elite’s seeming ability to use force to retain control does not bode well for Honduras’ future.
Update II:
Zelaya gave an interview (interesting read in Spanish) with El País in which he says that the coup asked for support from the U.S. embassy and that our embassy said it would not support any attempts to topple the Zelaya government.
Birchers Primer
The New York Times brings us the weird world of the Birchers:
This so-called North American Union, it asserts, is part of a larger plot by an amorphous, amoral group of powerful elite — including but not limited to the Council on Foreign Relations, the Trilateral Commission and the Rockefellers — to take over planet Earth. Call it the New World Order.
Some of these theories may sound like cable television chatter, or the synopsis of a Dan Brown bestseller. But Birch leaders say this plot is real, with roots going back more than 200 years to a secret, insidious brotherhood called the Illuminati, and with most American presidents among its many dupes and abettors.
Worth reading the whole article. People believe strange things.
Swine Flu!
A couple of days ago Los Tiempos ran an article about new cases of swine flu in Bolivia. This has sent people running for cover. The newest fashion trend in Cochabamba street gear (doctor not included):

What I Do Most Days
Probably some of you wonder what I actually do with my days in Cochabamba. On a typical day, I get up and get ready for work. I try to leave the house at 8:40 or 8:45 and hope on a micro. I get to work around 9. I work till about 12:30 and then I’m home again most days until 2:45. Siesta is alive and well and most things shut down from 12-2 for lunch. During lunch, I tend to just surf the web and bum around. Laundry is also a popular activity. It takes a bit longer here, due to the lack of washer and dryer. That means I’ve becoming pretty proficient at hand washing everything and thanks to the dry climate, things dry outside pretty quickly.
I get back to work around 3 and usually work till 5:30 or 6. Nighttime activities vary. At least once a week, I stay in and try to get some things accomplished for school/jobs. Some nights I go out, but usually don’t stay out late. On Mondays, everyone in the house cooks together, and on Wednesdays we all go out for dinner.
The first couple of weekends on Saturday I tried to make it to the countryside around Cochabamba. Last Saturday I played soccer with my coworkers and am planning on doing that tomorrow as well. Weekend nights I usually go out with my friends to some of the bars downtown or to a party. All in all, I can’t complain about things down here.
Old school bug (they’re a common car here), the micro I take to work everyday, ice cream man:

Bolivia Food Blogging: Salteñas

Salteñas may be the visible Bolivian treat. All the guide books talk about them, and they are pretty much everywhere. A salteña is just a different take on the empanada. They usually have chicken or beef, onions, potatoes, olives, and raisins (along with a whole bunch of other things that I can’t tell), and are usually gushing with liquid. The trick is to bit off a tip and suck a bit of the liquid out before forging ahead. Many a gringo has ended up with half the filling of a salteña on his jeans. The burnt edge is a defining feature.
Bolivia Food Blogging: Tranchapecho

This is the king of street food here, or just my favorite. Anyways, el tranchapecho is a sandwich of a thin slice of beef, a fried egg, rice, a potato or two, and a salad of carrots, onions, tomatoes and sometimes something green. It’s good in a fast food way and very filling. You can get them spicy or not.
Lozada and the U.S.
Several times here I’ve been asked what I think about Gonzalo Sánchez de Lozada.
Gonzalo Sánchez de Lozada won a second, non-consecutive presidential term in 2003. He set about implementing several contentious policies. First, he introduced financial austerity measures in the vein of the (now nearly defunct) neo-liberal Washington consensus. Even worse, he was prepared to move ahead with a gas line (Bolivia has the second largest reserves of natural gas in South America) through Chile. Due to longstanding animosity towards Chilean ports because of the War of the Pacific, where Chile took Bolivia’s territory that connected the country to the sea, Bolivia nationalists oppose any gas pipeline to a Chilean port that Bolivia would not have administrative control over. Lozada did not secure such port rights from Chile, but moved ahead anyway because of the backing of Western oil majors and U.S. financial support for a processing facility.
Lozada’s actions spurred immediate public discontent. In total, the military killed close to 100 people, suppressing demonstrations, and injured several hundred more. In September 2003, the dissent escalated into the “gas war” where the country was paralyzed by roadblocks and protests. The public demonstrations was spearheaded by Bolivia’s indigenous majority. Losing his grip on power, Lozada fled the country on October 17, 2003. Throughout the revolts, the U.S. staunchly backed Lozada and offered him exile when they fled.
The Bolivian government would like to see Lozada extradited from the U.S. for the alleged disproportionate amount of force the military used to counter the public protests during his presidency. We appear to have no inclination to do any such thing. Needless to say, many things about Lozada are unclear. Both his supporters and detractors are passionate, and most stories must be taken with a grain of salt. I can’t make an informed judgment either way, but his extradition (or lack thereof) is certainly a huge sticking point between the Morales government and Washington.
More on Lozada at COHA, and FPIF. Here’s a satirical picture of the guy:

(Photo Credit: Flickr.com)
The Aymara New Year

Inka Rakay at sunrise, from Los Tiempos. Inka Rakay is an old Inca city, now in ruins, in the Cochabamba department.
Yesterday was the Aymara New Year. The tradition involves staying up to see the sun come up and general merriment. Some llamas get sacrificed to the gods as well. I was not up for staying up a full day after an afternoon of soccer. Especially on close to one of the shortest and coldest days here. None the less, it’s now year 5517 on the Aymara calendar. If you do the math, Columbus’s discovery of America occurred in the year 5000…
The Diminutive
The Bolivians love the diminutive (the form of a noun with an “ito / ita” suffix.) It means that the noun is small. So I could say perrito (perro=dog, so un perrito is a puppy or small dog.) Here they add it on to nouns all the time without regard for whether the noun is actually small. It’s just the Bolivian style of Spanish. The old man who runs a little general store around the block is really into it. With him, we don’t deal in bolivianos (the national currency of Bolivia) but bolivianitos. He doesn’t ask for monedas (coins) but moneditas. In the spirit of the diminutive tradition, my boss and co-workers decided today at our weekend soccer games that I don’t attend Fordham, but Fordhamcita. The diminutive knows no bounds in Bolivia.
Tarata
Last Saturday I ventured out to Tarata (literally means tara trees in the direct object form in Quechua … I’ve started Quechua lessons), a sleepy little town a little less than an hour outside of Cochabamba. I went there because the town has supposedly some of the best colonial architecture in the area. Even though the town really has some beautiful old buildings and has not had any major modern redevelopment, there are a ton of buildings slowly crumbling into the earth. The town also felt really slow and sleepy, which was refreshing from the cosmopolitan capital which is Cochabamba. Anyways, I had fun walking around and checking out the buildings.



Bolivia Food Blogging: Chicharrón
Unsurprisingly, there’s a serious dearth of information about Bolivia in English on the internet. With that in mind, I’m going to be posting about some of the food down here. Today we start off with chicharrón.

Chicharrón is a bit different down in Bolivia. In Mexico and a bunch of other Latin American countries, chicharrón refers to seasoned pork rinds.In Bolivia, chicharrón is dish of seasoned pork ribs, cooked in fat and beer. It’s served here over mote, two purple potatoes, and llajwa (the tomato salsa), which I believe is the traditional preparation. Mote are the big corn kernels sitting underneath the pork ribs. They have a starchier bite and are less sweet than your typical corn on the cob. Llajwa is a traditional tomato salsa that has a kick with the addition of some Bolivian peppers and herbs. All in all, it was a very tasty lunch.
Cochabamba Blogging Begins: An Introduction to Cocha
Cochabamba (or Cocha for short) has been great thus far. I’m going to detail some adventures later and try to give a little introduction to the city here.. It’s decent-sized city of almost 600,000 people, making it the fourth largest city in Bolivia. It sits in a valley of the same name and is the capital of the Cochabamba Department (a political division of Bolivia roughly analogous to a state). The word Cochabamba comes from Quechua and means something like “lake-plain” (Quechua: qhucha = lake, pampa = plain.) And there is a very polluted lake in the city which is completely overgrown with algae within the city limits.
Cocha sits a bit of 6,000 feet above sea level and is in the mountains and hills between the true Andes and Chaco plains of Paraguay and the Amazon. It’s winter here which luckily is also the dry season. Even though Cocha is the most temperate city in Bolivia (it’s nickname is the “city of eternal spring”), it still gets quite cold here at night and sometimes gets down into the 30s. During the day when the sun is out, it can easily get into the 70s and even the 80s. Basically, I never know what to wear.
I live in a nice house with four nice American girls. Some people are moving in this week, so my housemate situation will soon change. The house is in a nice neighborhood right next to the University of San Simón (a large public university and where the professors I work with teach.) A big plaza, Plaza Sucre, is right around the block and there’s always a ton of students in the neighborhood during the week. The location of my house is great. It’s about a 15 minute walk to the city center where there are a ton of restaurants and bars.
Cochabamba is the agricultural center of Bolivia and traditionally grew the majority of foodstuffs to sell to the big mining towns in the Andes. Consequently, it is the culinary capital of Bolivia and the Cochabambinos (Cochabamba natives) take a ton of pride in what they eat and drink.
There’s not much in the way of tourist attractions here which suits just fine. Most foreigners here stay for at least a month and Cocha is definitely off the gringo backpacker trail. It easy to break out and meet the locals, aided by a fun bar scene fueled by the students. Cocha is also a very cheap city. I rarely pay more than $3-4 for a meal out and a liter of Taquiña (the local beer, more to come on this front) costs about $1.75 at a bar.
All in all, Cocha is a very livable city. I can walk almost to everything I’d want to go to and cabs around town are super cheap ($.80) for places further away or it it’s cold out. I’m having a ball going out to the restaurants and bars and never feel like I need to pinch pennies. I get along with all my roommates quite well and enjoy my job and the people I work with (more to come on this, too). My Spanish has come back with a vengeance and can get along in Spanish in most parts of my life. I’m also excited to be learning legal Spanish vocabulary at work. Here’s some Cocha pics:

Cochabamba

My humble abode

No introduction to Cochabamba is complete without a picture of El Cristo de la Concordia. This is the largest Christ statue in South America (bigger than Rio’s!) and sits above a large hill that rises over my neighborhood. If I get lost in the city, I just walk towards El Cristo.
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